The very last in our gaggle of grannies but certainly not least, Mualla in Istanbul book-ended our three years around the world, cooking with grandmothers for the book. It makes sense then, after a book rich in recipes and wisdom, that she made us the ultra-light, ultra-comforting semolina helva.
The day we cooked with Mualla it poured but that mattered very little. Having been welcomed into such a warm home packed with women all eager to share the culinary delights of Istanbul, we revelled in the now well-known high that comes with the sharing of special recipes across generations. We downed sweet tea looking over the Bosphorus. We danced to ‘Hey Mambo, Mambo Italiano’, Mualla – despite being unsteady on her feet at the ripe age of 92 – leading the charge.
Our days with Mualla and her granddaughter Zeynep will have a lasting impression. Their readiness to fling their doors and arms wide open to us, show us around their city and introduce us to friends, family and favourite foods is one that has been echoed throughout the process of making this book.
The immense hospitality, kindness and openness of those we cook with never cease to surprise us. It has been an affirmation that there is value in what we are doing, that these dishes are more than a quick feed. They are the very embodiment of a full life. They are loaded with memories, feeling and the most precious things that life affords us: time and love.
Anneanne Mualla’s Turkish Semolina Pudding (Helva)
(Feeds 8–10)
Ingredients
450g sugar, caster or granulated
250g unsalted butter, kept as a block
650ml water
500g semolina, coarse or fine
25g pine nuts
Method
In a medium pan, put the sugar, butter and water over medium heat. Bring to the boil slowly to melt the butter and dissolve the sugar. When it turns bubbly and smells milky, turn off the heat.
Meanwhile, take a non-stick pan with a lid and tip in the semolina and pine nuts. You’re going to dry-roast the semolina on a medium heat, stirring at all times so it doesn’t burn. You’ll know when it’s ready because you’ll smell it toasting, and it will start to go golden and the pine nuts will take on a slight pinkish hue. This will take about 30 minutes (yes, that long).
When the semolina is nearly ready, reheat the butter mixture, then pour it slowly into the semolina pan (Mualla asked her granddaughter to pour while she stirred). Stir well to make sure it’s combined, then let it bubble and settle before turning the heat off. Put the lid on and leave to stand for 10–15 minutes, until the liquid is absorbed. Every 5 minutes or so, stir to check it hasn’t got too solid, breaking up the mixture. It should be dry enough for you to fluff up nicely with a spoon or fork.
Serve warm in bowls with a sprinkle of cinnamon – and a scoop of vanilla ice cream if you like.
