Having found her number through the famous barbecue smokehouse she works for in Texas, after weeks of trying to get hold of her, we called Tootsie, huddled around a phone we’d put on loudspeaker. The line was not at all great. ‘Hello?’ barked a gruff voice, more demanding than enquiring. We dived into explaining that we’re two British girls on a mission to share recipes from grandmothers all over the wo— ‘WHO may I ASK is SPEAKING?’ the voice bellowed in a thick Texan slur. A quick exchange of glances. Then we tried again.
Eventually, over a painful five minutes and excruciatingly temperamental phone line, we were told to go to Snow’s BBQ in Lexington from 5 a.m. on a Saturday. Any Saturday? She had already hung up. So, weeks later, as we drove through lush fields dotted with cattle to small-town Lexington, we were perhaps more nervous than we have ever been when meeting a grandmother for the first time.
We needn’t have worried. Tootsie had been up since 2 a.m. smoking brisket over hot coals. Snow’s BBQ is famous all over the USA and octogenarian pitmaster Tootsie is its biggest draw. Hundreds of people drive from all over Texas to try her brisket. At Snow’s, she’s a celebrity, constantly in demand and forever being photographed by fans. In spite of all of this, she still gave us her full attention, sharing her prime brisket with us, taking us through her favourite beef stew recipe and opening up so honestly about her life, the death of her husband, and how her love of work will keep her going for years to come. Her bark, it seems, was much worse than her bite.
Mawmaw Tootsie’s Beef Stew
(Feeds 4)
Ingredients
3 tbsp olive oil
2 large red onions, each cut into 8 wedges
3 carrots, peeled, halved lengthways and cut into 2cm pieces
3 red potatoes, peeled and roughly chopped into 2cm cubes
3 tbsp plain flour
2 tsp salt flakes
2 tsp cracked black pepper
700g braising beef, diced
4 sprigs fresh thyme
1l beef stock
handful fresh parsley, chopped (for garnish)
Method
In a heavy casserole pan, heat 2 tbsp of the olive oil and fry the onions for 10 minutes until starting to brown.
Add the carrots and potatoes, and cook for 5–10 minutes until colouring a little.
Meanwhile, mix the flour, salt and pepper together. Sprinkle over the beef cubes and toss so they’re lightly coated.
When the vegetables look slightly caramelised at the edges, remove them from the pan and set aside. Add the remaining tbsp olive oil.
Brown the beef in two batches, making sure it gets some good colour on all sides.
Return all the beef and all the vegetables to the pan; add the thyme and stock.
Bring to the boil and then simmer with the lid on for 2½ hours, or until the beef is falling apart.
Remove the lid and cook uncovered for the last 20–30 minutes so the sauce thickens. Season to taste and serve with crusty bread and a sprinkle of parsley.
