It began with a mammoth drive – straight through the middle of the Brecon Beacons – to get to Gloria’s farmhouse in Presteigne, on the border of England and Wales. A flat chunk of mist was sitting on the trees at the top of the valley; it had rained non-stop for the last 24 hours. This made the cosy insides of Gloria’s barn conversion even more comforting.The house had touches of Colombia everywhere. Gloria’s dish was a true extension of her – warm and bright with hidden depths and rich context.
Ajiaco is a Colombian staple. In Colombia they have a much greater array of potatoes with different flavour profiles. The recipe must combine potatoes that dissolve with potatoes that maintain shape, adding flavour and colour.
In this recipe Gloria uses four kinds to mimic the variations found in traditional ajiaco. Ideally she would add a fifth variety – papa criolla – which have a deep yellow colour (and can be bought frozen in Colombian shops). The same goes for the traditional guascas (a native herb), which she managed to locate at the Colombian shop in Seven Sisters. She also tricks the eye and palette by adding fresh watercress for the illusion of fresh guascas. We finished with an elegant fruit- salad dessert of papaya, pineapple, orange, banana and grated coconut.
Feeds 6
Takes 2 hours 20 minutes, or 1 hour 55 minutes with a pressure cooker
Ingredients
1 celery stick, cut into large chunks
4 garlic cloves, 2 kept whole and 2 chopped
1 red onion, half cut into large chunks and half diced
1 white onion, half cut into large chunks and half diced
1 large carrot, cut into large chunks
1 red pepper, cut into large chunks
bunch spring onions, green tops only
4 corncobs (1 for the stock, 3 cut in half for each bowl of ajiaco)
bunch fresh coriander, stalks only
1 whole chicken, or 6 chicken thighs
1 tbsp olive oil
1 baking potato, peeled and thinly sliced so it dissolves easily
800g mixed small waxy potatoes, skin on and chopped into 1cm chunks (Gloria suggests Anya, Charlotte and red potatoes)
handful dried guascas (optional, for authenticity)
2 handfuls watercress, torn
For the spicy aji sauce
bunch spring onions, white parts only, finely chopped
1 bunch fresh coriander, leaves only, finely chopped
2 red chillies, finely chopped
1 large tomato, skin removed and chopped
juice of ½ lime
2 tbsp white wine or cider vinegar
For the garnish
6 tsp capers
6 tbsp sour cream
3 avocados, finely sliced
Method
Start by making the stock for the base of the soup: put the chopped celery, garlic, red and white onion chunks, carrots, red pepper and green ends of the spring onions into a pressure cooker or saucepan large enough to hold the veg and your chicken. Add one corncob (for extra corn flavour, says Gloria), the coriander stalks and chicken. Pour in enough water to cover, then season and feel free to chuck in any other rogue vegetables you need to use up to add more flavour.
Bring to a boil, then, if using a saucepan, put on the lid, reduce the heat and simmer for about 45 minutes until chicken is cooked through. If using a pressure cooker, put the lid on and cook for 20 minutes.
While the chicken is cooking you can prepare the ají sauce by combining all the ingredients listed in a bowl and top up with cold water to just cover.
When the chicken is done, turn off the heat and carefully remove it from the saucepan into a large bowl. When cool enough, shred the meat and set aside. Add the bones back into the broth and cook for a further hour.
Meanwhile heat the oil, fry both diced onions for 10 minutes, until soft and golden. Put the shredded chicken and the fried onion in a sealable container with a ladle of stock to keep them moist and put it in the fridge to marinate.
After 1 hour, remove the chicken bones and vegetables from the broth; they’re no longer needed. Add the baking potato and cook for about 15 minutes until the potato starts to dissolve. Then add the rest of the potatoes, remaining corncobs and guascas (if using), and cook for a further 20 minutes. Taste for seasoning.
Take the shredded chicken from the fridge, add salt to taste and add to the pan to heat through.
Just before serving, stir in the ripped-up watercress and ladle into bowls, making sure each person gets a piece of sweetcorn. Put ají (for heat and acid), capers, sour cream and avocado on the table for everyone to add themselves as toppings.
