Having launched this project with our own two grandmothers, Rajni was our first ‘unknown’ and thus most nerve-wracking. We didn’t yet have our ‘routine’ nailed, and we’d driven all the way to an unknown street in Leicester, trusting her granddaughter Ria’s insistence that Rajni was a culinary legend. Ria was not biased; the nerves evaporated and it was one of our favourite days. We went straight into the kitchen, already full of flavour, and watched her casually make three curries, lassis and dessert in a sort of narrated performance, wearing a beautiful turmeric-coloured sari.
These photos by Ella are still some of our absolute favourites. At one point we had her down on her knees with the incredible spread laid out on the floor, all elegant hands and heavy gold bangle, pretending to serve her curries. She was very game and patient. Finally we all sat down: the three of us, her sister, daughter and granddaughter (husband banished to the study for the duration). We sat around the table for about two hours, sharing food and stories.
To this day, in any yoghurt-based scenario we still quote Rajni, who was absolutely insistent that yoghurt is the secret to eternal youth.
Feeds 8 as part of a thali (or 4 as a main)
Takes 45 minutes
Ingredients
8 tbsp sunflower oil
500g new potatoes
2 aubergines, cut into large chunks
2 green peppers, roughly cut into 3cm squares
450–500g small red onions, peeled, with a cross shape cut to the centre
For the cooking spices
2 green bird’s-eye chillies, whole with a small slit made in the side
2 tsp mustard seeds
1 tsp fenugreek seeds
½ tsp asafoetida
5 dried curry leaves
For the masala
80g chickpea (gram) flour
2 tbsp fresh coriander, stalks removed and leaves finely chopped
1 tbsp ground cumin
1 tsp turmeric
1 tsp chilli powder
2 tsp salt
2 tsp caster sugar
Method
Par boil the new potatoes.
Prepare the masala by combining all the ingredients in a mixing bowl and set aside.
In a frying pan heat ½ tbsp sunflower oil. Add the masala and toast the mix to bring out the flavours, stirring constantly for 5 minutes until it is more yellow in colour, then take off the heat.
Put 4 tbsp sunflower oil into a large pan on a medium–low heat. Add the drained potatoes and put the lid on and cook for 8–10 minutes, or until they have started to soften and turn golden in places. Shake the pan so the potatoes get heat on all sides.
Put the cut-up aubergines and peppers into a bowl. Stuff some of the masala into the cut into each of the onions you made, pulling apart the cut to stuff as much as you can (about half the mix). Do this over the bowl of vegetables so no masala is wasted.
Next, turn the heat down on the potato pan while you add all the cooking spices. Heat for 2 minutes, until they crackle and release their scent.
Now add the stuffed onions, aubergines and peppers. Sprinkle over 2 tbsp marsala mix and two 2 more tbsp oil. Stir gently to coat and put the lid on again. Cook on low heat until the veg is nearly soft (around 25 minutes). Keep an eye on it in case it starts sticking (it always does a bit, says Rajni). If it’s sticking, turn the heat lower, add a little more oil and a splash of water if necessary.
When the veg is soft, add the remaining 2 tbsp oil and sprinkle in the rest of the masala and stir to coat. Cook for 5 minutes more for the mixture to really stick to the veg and warm through. Test the seasoning and serve with lots of yoghurt, fresh coriander and chapati as a main, or to create a proper Indian thali like Rajni you could also add a serving of raita, a simple red lentil dahl, rice and a lassi.
